No More Cool Mountain Air At Cameron Highlands?

By: Oleh Melati Mohd Ariff

CAMERON HIGHLANDS, Feb 16 (Bernama) - Agriculture is fast spoiling the landscape of Cameron Highlands, Malaysia's premier hill resort, according to residents.From tea planted on its fertile hills, Pahang's smallest district is experiencing intensive vegetable cultivation not only on the lowlands but also on its steep slopes and deep into the pristine forests.

On a dry but humid day, a gentle breeze carries the foul smell of fertilizers that permeates the air. This is a stark reality where visitors to this idyllic highland getaway could no longer boast of breathing cool fresh mountain-air.

START OF DEVELOPMENT

Founded in 1885 by British colonial government surveyor William Cameron, the highlands with its highest point standing 1,500 metres above sea level was developed as a hill station in 1925.

Drastic transformation of the highlands came about after the country's independence in 1957 and the years thereon when the cool mountain climate was found to be ideal for growing vegetables.

Subsequently, large tracts of virgin jungles were cleared to make way for tea and vegetable plantations.

Construction of roads, buildings and housing settlements was carried out also in an equally rapid pace.With an area of about 71,000 hectares and a population of over 30,000, Cameron Highlands has now eight towns namely Blue Valley, Kg Raja, Kuala Terla, Tringkap, Brinchang, Tanah Rata, Bertam Valley and Ringlet.

Most of the agriculture activities are centred in Bertam Valley while Blue Valley is noted for its tea plantations in which among them are the Blue Valley Tea Plantation and BOH Tea Plantation.

GOOD OLD DAYS
For the old folks of Cameron Highlands, they yearn for the good old days when they woke up to breathe in the cold crisp air and enjoying the tranquility and serenity of the lush, green surroundings.

However that peaceful and much adored highland has long been transformed into a bustling and crowded place, thronged with visitors particularly during the school or festive holidays.

"Life was so good and peaceful then. There were not many people and vehicles. The children could even play in the middle of the road."

Even though the air was so cold, it was really refreshing. We had to put on jackets to keep warm. It was so cold that the coconut oil coagulated and we could wrap it in newspapers," reminisced Zainal Abidin Shafie, 77, who came to Cameron Highlands in 1948, at the age of 18.

When asked to comment on the rapid development taking place here, Zainal Abidin who was chosen as 'Tokoh Maal Hijrah 2009' for Cameron Highlands, spoke with much concern."Some houses are being built right next to the roads and there are some constructed near rivers. Just look at the houses built in Tringkap (located about eight km from Brinchang)."

The other problem is traffic flow and parking. Take a look at Tanah Rata, stalls are everywhere, visitors have a hard time parking their cars. During holidays, the roads and most of the towns would be so congested."I really hope the local authorities would monitor the situation and do something fast," Zainal Abidin told Bernama, adding that usually he would purchase all his groceries well before any holiday seasons so as to avoid the crowds and the traffic snarl.

FOND MEMORIES

For 74-year-old Kolandapayan a/l Sengkali Kaundan, living in Cameron Highlands was filled with fond memories.Indian-born Kolandapayan came to Cameron Highlands in 1953 to work as a tea plantation labourer in the Blue Valley.The wage was RM2.30 per day and according to Kolandapayan, he spent RM1 for food and the balance was saved for rainy days."

It was so cold in those days but after awhile I came to like the place, after all there was nowhere else to go. It was quiet, not many people, not many cars and not many buildings too."There were thick jungles everywhere. I was afraid not of the wild animals but communist terrorists who frequently came out from their hideouts to our place," said Kolandapayan, who performed odd jobs including as a gardener after leaving the tea plantation.

When asked about his life now in Cameron Highlands, he was quick with these remarks, "Hot. Too many people and too many cars. Before it was hot only for one or two days in month but now it is hot all the time. Too many jungles and hills being cleared."

As for Francis Thangam, also 74, coming to Cameron Highlands at the age of 23 was a blessing in disguise. He heard about the place through a friend who operated a barbershop there."I paid RM1.80 for a bus ride to Cameron Highlands from Klang through Tapah. It was a small bus that could accommodate only 16 people. The journey through the winding roads was definitely tough."

When I first came here, the air was so cold, everybody had to wear jackets," he said.Perseverance paid for Francis and after doing several jobs, he landed a managerial position with Bharat Tea Plantation in 1963, a position he held until he retired in Dec 2004.

MISSING THE FOGGY DAYS

As for Zulkifli Mohd Ariffin, 67, who came to Cameron Highlands in 1981 after being promoted as chief clerk with the Land Office, the one thing that he missed most was the cool, foggy days."I was an avid sportsman and in those days, we had to stop our sports activities due to the thick fog. It could be happening at any time of the day and not necessarily on rainy days. That was how cold it was back then. You could see vapour coming out from your mouth as you spoke."

Now you may get a foggy day only once a month, but that it is also a rare opportunity except when it rains. Even the way the visitors to Cameron Highlands dress is a clear indication on the abrupt change in weather here. Some are walking around just t-shirts and shorts!"

Years before, you could not move around without jackets and at nights you had to put on several layers of clothing and and even socks," said Zulkifli.He,too,lamented on the improper way Cameron Highlands is being developed. "

Development has to be on a sustainable manner so as not to damage the ecosystem and well-being of the highlands. But what is happening here now, things have gone from bad to worse," he added.

WHAT THE ORANG ASLI SAYS

For the Orang Asli of Kampung Kuala Boh in Ringlet, despite their settlement situated away from the hustle and bustle of modern day living in the Cameron Highlands, they are still being affected by such development.

For one, Sungai Mensoon that flows past the village is moderately polluted due to large scale agricultural activities at the upstream areas.Bahdin Pulai, 67, recalled many happy moments during his younger days like fishing and swimming in the river near the Orang Asli settlement."

There were no vegetable farms then, the river water was crystal clear. You could drink the water right away, no pollution and there was so much fish."We were also blessed with many wild animals to hunt especially the deer. But our children now are no longer able to enjoy that good times. They even do not know how to make blowpipes," said Bahdin, who has to move around now using a walking stick due to gout.According to him, the river began to show signs of pollution around late 1970s with the opening of many vegetable farms in Ringlet.

SHARING THE FRUSTRATION

The Tok Batin (Orang Asli community head) of Kampung Kuala Boh, Nordin Abu Bakar shared Bahdin's frustration."We have not been able to catch fish in the past four years. There used to be several species of fish in Sungai Mensoon like kelah and tengas. The fish is gone. The river is polluted," he remarked.

There are 92 Orang Asli families in Kampung Kuala Boh and all of them are Muslims. The older folks earn their living by collecting rattan, growing bananas, tapioca and hill paddy while some of the village youths have gone to the big cities to work.Born and bred in Kampung Kuala Boh which spread over an area of 100 hectares, Nordin was named Tok Batin (Orang Asli community head) in 1992, taking over the position after the death of his father, Abu Bakar.

Despite the village being surrounded by jungles, Nordin said the weather now is different from his younger days."When we were young, we could not wear sleeveless t-shirt like what I am wearing now. It was too cold regardless whether it was morning or afternoon. But now, you can have iced drinks even in the morning.There are just too much lands cleared for vegetable farms. I hope there would not be any encroachment to this village," said the 45-year-old Nordin, who served as a commando for 12 years before he retired and returned to Kampung Kuala Boh.

For Zainal, Kolandapayan, Francis Thangam, Zulkifli, Bahdin and Nordin, Cameron Highlands hold a special place in their hearts.They have breathed the cool and fresh mountain air, enjoyed its serenity and tranquility. Now what they longed for is to be able to pass on that legacy to their children and the future generations.-- BERNAMA

Reflection Questions

1. Development has bring more benefit than problems in Cameron HIghlnads. Do you agree? Explain your answer.

2. Development must stopin Cameron Highlands.Do you agree? Explain your answer.